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Amidst the myriad of modern delicacies, Thong Nhat village still maintains a peculiar culinary tradition: eating soil. Not ordinary soil or sand, this pristine white "tile soil" is becoming a luxurious snack with exorbitant prices.
The arduous journey of "hunting" for precious land in the heart of the hill.
To obtain the delicious, chewy "clay cake," skilled artisans like Mrs. Nguyen Thi Khuyen (40 years of experience) have to sacrifice both sweat and danger. The edible clay is not found in the open but hidden dozens of meters deep beneath the hills.
The craftsman must penetrate through layers of ordinary clay, digging deep until he reaches a layer of pure white, smooth soil, like the inside of a cassava root, with a shimmering pattern. This is the premium "tile clay"—the core ingredient that creates this unique specialty.
Secrets from the flame of fresh myrtle leaves
The process of processing clay for roof tiles is just as elaborate as the extraction stage. After the raw clay is brought to the surface, it undergoes the following steps: The outer layer is removed, and impurities are filtered out. It is then cut into small, bite-sized pieces, like candy. Smoking: This is a crucial step. The craftsman uses fresh myrtle leaves, burning them and holding the clay over the flame so that the myrtle smoke permeates each layer of clay.
The distinctive aroma of sim smoke not only masks the pungent smell of earth and rocks but also creates an addictive flavor for diners.
"Luxury" delicacies and a strange addiction.
Although no longer in its heyday like the 1990s, Lap Thach clay for roof tiles still holds immense appeal. Ms. Nguyen Thi Sau, a trader in Song Lo commune, revealed that she regularly supplies 30-40 kg of clay per month to customers nationwide. With prices ranging from 500,000 to 600,000 VND per kg, it's truly a luxurious snack.
Many diners from as far away as Quang Ninh travel all the way here to enjoy it. The crunchy texture, the soft and refreshing taste, combined with the rich, smoky aroma of sim fruit, makes those who are "familiar with the taste" feel restless if they miss it.
Decoding the scientific perspective and cultural value
According to Vietnamese and Korean scientists, this type of soil is actually a form of pure kaolin clay. In the past, when nutrition was scarce, it was a natural source of calcium and iron for pregnant women and the elderly. According to folk beliefs, roof tile soil is considered "cooling," beneficial for people with internal heat.
However, the value of clay lies not only in its nutritional value. In Lap Thach, clay was once the "first bite of a betel nut," a solemn offering on the altars during ancestral worship ceremonies and Tet (Lunar New Year). For people like Mr. Ha Van Dung, chewing clay has become a habit that has lasted for over 20 years, continuing a tradition passed down from his ancestors.
Despite the dwindling supply of fertile soil and the declining interest among younger generations, the custom of eating soil remains a fascinating chapter in the cultural history of Lap Thach. The rich aroma of sim fruit smoke and the pristine white soil will forever be a testament to humanity's miraculous adaptation to harsh nature. It's a unique dish, yet it embodies the warmth and distinctive character of a Vietnamese countryside. Even as modern life with its abundance of fine cuisines encroaches upon it, the rich scent of sim fruit smoke infused in each piece of clay remains an inseparable part of the memories of the people of Lap Thach. Amidst the dwindling supply of this "white gold" and the increasing scarcity of artisans like Mrs. Khuyen, this specialty dish from the earth is not merely a treat for leisure, but a vivid testament to a unique and unparalleled local culture. Perhaps in the future, the custom of eating earth will only exist in historical records, but the story of the miraculous interplay between humans and Mother Nature through these pristine "earth cakes" will forever remain a brilliant mark, an unmistakable source of pride for the land of Vinh Phuc, past and present.
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