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As the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) enters its peak season in preparation for Tet (Lunar New Year), a private show quietly took place and quickly attracted the attention of the fashion world. Creative director Chi Bui chose to tell the story of the ao dai with a consistent inspiration called Renaissance.
During peak season, the market for ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) is more vibrant than ever.
The end of the year is always the time when the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) reigns supreme. From wearing it during Tet (Lunar New Year), for commemorative photos, to attending events, many women are willing to invest in this traditional attire. The market therefore becomes bustling with a series of new collections and innovative designs constantly appearing, carrying many messages about beauty and the role of modern women.
Amidst that landscape, Chi Bui's solo show stood out not because of its large scale, but because of its very different approach: placing the ao dai in a tranquil space, allowing viewers to truly "stay" with the garment.
Private show: when fashion needs to be observed slowly.
The show was held in a nostalgic setting, completely separate from the usual hustle and bustle of large fashion shows. According to Chi Bui, fashion, especially the ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress), needs to be viewed at a slower pace, where the audience has enough time to appreciate the structure, materials, and natural movement of each design.
Private shows are also a way for fashion houses to show respect to their guests and models, all of whom are women. The private space allows all eyes to focus entirely on the outfits, avoiding the feeling of being "drawn away" by stage effects or a fast pace of the show.
35 models, 35 bespoke designs.
All 35 designs in the SS26 Maison Denude collection were custom-made for each model. This was not just a technical choice, but also a statement celebrating the uniqueness of the female body.
The spirit of the Renaissance unfolds through music.
The program opened with a violin performance by artist Jmi Ko. Music played a guiding role, evoking the spirit of the Renaissance – where classical beauty is re-examined from a contemporary perspective. Without lengthy introductions, the sound of the violin was enough to transport the audience into a world of materials, strokes, and emotions.
Without breaking the traditional ao dai, just expanding its scope.
With 35 designs, especially modernized ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress), Chi Bui approaches traditional elements in a restrained way. The focus is not on drastic unconventionality, but on structure, feel, and natural movement. Materials are selected from various craft villages both domestically and internationally, including vintage-inspired fabrics, combined with lace and sheer effects in a measured manner.
Hand embroidery and embellishments are not intended to create a strong visual effect, but rather serve as metaphors for time, heritage, and personal emotion. The handling of the four panels of the ao dai, lace, and sheer fabrics helps the garment maintain its inherent elegance while reflecting a contemporary spirit through its form and rhythm.
Clothing culture as an inner language
Chi Bui's years living in Europe have significantly influenced her perspective on fashion. For her, fashion culture is not just about trends, but about a woman's inner language. The combination of classic, traditional elements with rebellious details is not a deliberate blend, but stems from the brand's original personality.
Amidst the bustling year-end ao dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) season, Chi Bui's private show didn't follow the crowd. Instead, the program chose a more tranquil approach, allowing the ao dai to be admired, appreciated, and honored for its inherent value – a gentle yet profound renaissance.
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